Assembly Theory Proven
Please think about how the tapering section can be assembled... well, before we get into how it's done, be assured that there is a lot of fitting of the holes for the columns before it will work. The geometry mandates that each shelf is at the correct level and that the holes are large enough to allow the 4º and 6º slopes to be tolerated.
In the picture, the upper portion is just positioned roughly on the base portion, but three out of the four columns seat pretty well into the recesses in the base––a small amount of finagling will be required to get the final column to seat, but it's doable.
Part of the final finishing steps will require application of a generous amount of wood filler to close the inevitable gaps at the joints: I lack the expensive computer controlled milling machine required to cut square hole of the correct dimension with parallel side angled at 4º and 6º respectively.
It is intended that each shelf be dowelled to the column at each of its corners, so the molding can be fasted only after that has been done--another aggravation.
In the picture, the upper portion is just positioned roughly on the base portion, but three out of the four columns seat pretty well into the recesses in the base––a small amount of finagling will be required to get the final column to seat, but it's doable.
Part of the final finishing steps will require application of a generous amount of wood filler to close the inevitable gaps at the joints: I lack the expensive computer controlled milling machine required to cut square hole of the correct dimension with parallel side angled at 4º and 6º respectively.
It is intended that each shelf be dowelled to the column at each of its corners, so the molding can be fasted only after that has been done--another aggravation.
Making a $200 Etagére for less than $500
Normally my Gizmozilla, Gz, is designed for routing mortises across the ends or along the edges of the workpiece. I decided I needed to be able to cut mortises across the face of a workpiece or, as shown here, to cut recesses in the large faces of the workpiece.
I acquired the illustrated Bessey Parallel Face clamp, a hefty brute, because its design lent itself to being clamped aligned with the top of Gz, i.e. flush with the underside of the router plate. By good luck, the tail of the new clamp allowed a 3/8" lag screw to be inserted into the end of Gz's feet to restrain the tail. A 2" x 4" clamped to the center of the workbench holds the clamp in position, while fastening its tail with the lag screw and using one of the Jorgensen hold-down clamps to fix it tightly to Gz.
So, in effect, I have a strong vise to support one end of my workpiece in position against Gz; if the workpiece is too long or heavy to remain in the correct position I would support it on an adjustable roller stand. The hdpe stop block hanging at an angle is not relevant.
Btw, the piece being cut here is the top shelf of the Etagére, which required four pockets 1/2" deep to seat on the four columns visible in background.
How did the cost get so high? Well, firstly, the materials required came to $137. I needed a special Freud multi-contour router bit to cut the molding: $73. I needed a special hold down GRR Gripper to cut the columns and molding without losing any digits: $105. I needed more hand clamps: $15. I needed the Bessey Parallel Clamp: $40 and one more Bessey clamp for $18. OK so that's just under $400, I exaggerated! Naturally, the only consumable is the material as all tools will serve for many years to come.
Pictures and commentary on the Etagére itself will follow in a subsequent posting.
I acquired the illustrated Bessey Parallel Face clamp, a hefty brute, because its design lent itself to being clamped aligned with the top of Gz, i.e. flush with the underside of the router plate. By good luck, the tail of the new clamp allowed a 3/8" lag screw to be inserted into the end of Gz's feet to restrain the tail. A 2" x 4" clamped to the center of the workbench holds the clamp in position, while fastening its tail with the lag screw and using one of the Jorgensen hold-down clamps to fix it tightly to Gz.
So, in effect, I have a strong vise to support one end of my workpiece in position against Gz; if the workpiece is too long or heavy to remain in the correct position I would support it on an adjustable roller stand. The hdpe stop block hanging at an angle is not relevant.
Btw, the piece being cut here is the top shelf of the Etagére, which required four pockets 1/2" deep to seat on the four columns visible in background.
How did the cost get so high? Well, firstly, the materials required came to $137. I needed a special Freud multi-contour router bit to cut the molding: $73. I needed a special hold down GRR Gripper to cut the columns and molding without losing any digits: $105. I needed more hand clamps: $15. I needed the Bessey Parallel Clamp: $40 and one more Bessey clamp for $18. OK so that's just under $400, I exaggerated! Naturally, the only consumable is the material as all tools will serve for many years to come.
Pictures and commentary on the Etagére itself will follow in a subsequent posting.
